SpiritMaa

September 09

Gale force winds the first night. Surprise to find the effort needed to stay upright -- prone, however, the boat rocked us to sleep. Later sitting on deck and watching the ocean, I was  enthralled.  And more than rewarded with a humpback whale greeting and tale slapping as we sailed by...Then Ketchikan--the mountain-water town-on-stilts.  Totem poles everywhere, not minding the upside-down  umbrella or rain in our faces.  Energy stopping me in my tracks at the two hundred year old totem poles. Conversation with a native guide who hears voices when no one is about, and sees shamans outside her window at night. Says the ancestors are all around... Can't get enough of the native art --paintings, drums, boxes, masks -- all draw me off the street and into the shops. Creek street built-on-stilts with its native dolls, crystals, and art enchanting me.  So much so I'm not surprised to find out later it was a red light district for 50 years.  Salmon spawning in the creek and humans spawning in the street :)...

Still raining, now in Juneau, historic town, mountain backdrop.   Fog shape-shifting everywhere. Eagles on the beach in Auk Bay, whales breaching right in front of me.  The green mountain, white glacier, blue water of Mendehall stopping me in my tracks.  Again. Ice crystals stun me with their beauty, and torn up salmon remains more than hint at bear's dinner last night... Hoonah -- natives have lived here 12,000 years.  I heard the story that it was Raven who stole starlight, moonlight and sunlight from the gods and brought them to the people. Is it true? ....Beach walk in the rain. Trees inviting me in.  Moss covering everything, stumps with faces.  Light orbs in my photos -- were nature spirits speaking to me?  Or maybe the ancestors like the native artist in Victoria said later?.... Mountains surrounding the ship and dwarfing us as we entered the fjord.  Green water, ice floes everywhere, sunlight slashing across the blue water glacier at the last moment as the boat turned round an island to head back into open water....Moonlight pictures from the boat with light orbs bubbling all over.....  Killer whales and harbor porpoises off the side of the ship as we headed south again.  Alaska energies...